Our challenge to Greaves was to put together a budget conscious “off the beaten track” introduction to Rajasthan that would satisfy a small group of jaded travelers whose real life concept of ” out of the way” is to enter Peter Jones from the back door. All of Greaves’s itinerary suggestions provided the perfect level of comfort, adventure and seamless co-ordination. 5 Star India is bling on steroids and must be seen but it was the little tucked away heritage hotels, our early morning walks in the local villages ( mind the cow dung) and weaving through the potholes of an Indian highway that was our real introduction to another world. It was wonderful we could boast to the Mumbai elite we were going to places they had never heard of; score one for us at the dinner table.

As for service I am afraid Greaves has to take second place behind the cobbler of Raipur village who measured our feet at 11:00am and produced hand stitched goat hide moccasins for delivery to Lakshman Sagar in the Badlands of India (Maharajah’s former hunting lodge of course) at 6 the next morning for under a tenner.

Woman in car

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